8.30.2010

You Are Invited...

Ah, to be young at an industry tasting; nothing else compares. My most recent wine adventure landed me at the Armory, where select Estate wineries put their most delicious current releases under the nasal scrutiny of hundreds of professionals.

VIP Industry Pass
Yamhill-Carlton District AVA
presents
Down to Earth Wine Tasting 2010
Center Stage Armory - Gerding Theater
August 30

There was Chardonnay, there was Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Reisling, an occasional wild card varietal and, you guessed it, lots of Pinot Noir. Armed only with Riedels and eager palates, we set out on the tasting floor. Of the twenty-seven wineries--totaling over one hundred pours--we anticipated surprise, drama, disappointment, and new found loves.

"Your palate is always freshest in the morning when you don't use mouthwash." -- Adam Campbell, winemaker, Elk Cove Vineyards.

Our first stop on the circuit was Elk Cove Vineyards. Now, Riesling, as I often shun sweeter white wines, is a touchy varietal for me, but Elk Cove delivered a balanced and minerally, mouthwatering 2009 Estate Riesling ($17) that seemed hand tailored to my palate, despite it's sugary nature. The selections of Pinot Noir were less impressive given the circumstance, as each was slightly flabby in flavor and loosely structured.

Spotting a decanter and a mysterious double magnum we scooted over to EIEIO & Co. where Jay McDonald no.2 poured his yet to be released 2008 Pinot Noir Cuvée Y. "The wine is young," McDonald excused, "but you professionals can taste through that!" Giddy about his "professional" comment, we sniffed and sipped... Already an immaculately structured and complex wine, this subtly oaked Pinot is going to be a stud when it's finally ready to drink (not that we'll be getting our hands on the 200 case limited release).

With a few more tastes and a revitalizing shot of gazpacho, we slipped upstairs.

Anne Amie Vineyards' 2007 Prismé candied-walnut-surprise Pinot Noir Blanc was really exciting. To produce this colorless Pinot Noir, grape skins are allowed no time to steep in the pressed juice, and aged 18 months in French oak to create a voluptuous white wine. Another tasty find at Anne Amie was the lustrous 2007 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir (92 pts Wine & Spirits, $35). What a knock out first impression; I anticipate fabulous finds in forthcoming vintages.

Let's talk Melon. Melon de Bourgogne, the varietal used to make the dry white wine, Muscadet, is a rare find outside of France's Loire Valley. The grapes have recently been introduced here in the Pacific Northwest, and--seafood lovers, get excited--Roots is bringing the heat with its fabulously spiced 2009 Deux Vert Vineyard Melon de Bourgogne. With a nice mouthfeel at $18 greens, I'm amped to pair Roots' Melon with some slippery oysters.

Next we learned how sustainably cultivated Willakenzie vines parent a remarkably acidic jelly and cocktail fruity 2007 Pierre Léon Pinot Noir ($38), and a noteworthy 2009 Pinot Blanc ($21).

My first introduction to Carlton Cellars' lightly toasted Pinot Noir was thrilling. Saturated dark-marinated cherries headed the structure of the 2007 Cape Lookout Pinot ($30), and I adored how the 2008 performed buoyantly with down-home brambly raspberry-- I felt like I should be in a jumper, cartwheeling with the chickens on a dry Autumn day at the barn.

At the end, the floor held both striking executions and dull efforts. At 3 o'clock we were summoned downstairs for a sit-down tasting.

A 10 year retrospective

Oregon producers opened their cellars to share tastes of their decade-old Pinot Noir. Ken Wright introduced a blind tasting of extraordinary 2000s from Kramer, Elk Cove, Stag Hollow, Sother, and Belle Pente.


Ranking
  1. The 2000 Pinot Noir by Stag Hollow-- my favorite of the bunch-- featured a warm, graham crackery nose which introduced a well rounded palate of slightly dried prunes and a sazerac rye whiskey and puckering anise twinge... reminds me of my favorite cocktail!
  2. 2000 Pinot Noir by Belle Pente. BAM! The last wine of the tasting hit with a dry, earthy and acidic cherry love.
  3. The 2000 Pinot Noir by Sother was gritty and herbaceous, and saturated with watery cherries.
  4. My tasting scribbles for Kramer's 2000 Pinot Noir read: musty. lightening fast acid & gritty cowboy farm barnyard yee-ha.
  5. 2000 Pinot Noir by Elk Cove: bright and creamy with a fruit leathery orange plumb liqueur body.



I had a blast on my winey afternoon, and I took away a valuable lesson, "your palate is always freshest in the morning when you don't use mouthwash." Eloquently put by Winemaker Adam Campbell of Elk Cove Vineyards.


Whew! I'm exhausted... See you next time in the tasting room!

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