Neighborly Wine Potluck

Ah, a lovely evening of wine and tapas. Motivated by our love of non-in-your-face-oaky "varietally correct" wines, we themed our gathering according to producers who, as Brent passionately explained, "are not only preserving history but also inspiring us with their dedication to classical flavors and textures.... basically wine that tastes like what it's supposed to taste like." Everyone brought an appropriately expressive wine for blind tasting, and a creative dish to pair!

Finding "Varietally Correct" Wines

How can you impress all your wino friends with your impeccable taste if you don't have the opportunity to try new wines all the time? Your safest bet will be to stick with the old world. Find a regionally, village or vineyard specific French wine like Sauvignon Blanc or Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley, Chardonnay from the Macôn-Villages or Chablis, a Côtes du Rhône (blend, but primarily Syrah), a Cru Beaujolais (2009s are especially awesome), or for a splurge pick up a red Burgundy (Pinot Noir). Italian Sangiovese has a very distinct nose to it that could only be Italian (that iron, rubbery, cooked, almost bret-spoiled earthy smell... yummy!). Look for a wine from the Chianti Classico region. New world classics such as New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon, or German Riesling may also earn you extra cool points in the "wow, (s)he knows his/her wine" category. 

Small Plates of the Evening

cheese + charcuterie

bacon wrapped scallops

empanadillas de carne with refreshing Greek dipping sauce

tortilla española

Gobble Day: a Beerless Holiday

Our small holiday party (left to right): the sommelier/synth master extraordinaire, the passionate artist, the professional mess, the artisan winemaker,  the exquisite cook, the writer, the boy-genius (not pictured), and the super heroine (yours truly whose snapping the photo)

In direct contrast to last year, we opted for an early meal turned all-day-feasting-loungeathon. We started with eat-as-you-make appetizers; crispy-fried brussel sprout trimmings with lemon aoli, baked prosciutto chips, and plenty of cheese n' favorite charcuterie from Olympic Provisions. For sippings we went with something our friend Leah recently created & fixed for us at Tabla Mediterranean Bistro; she calls it the Don Juan. This almost salty sweet, bright bubbly peach stone cocktail is an ideal apéritif.

The Don Juan

2 parts Amontillado sherry

2 parts delicate cava

splash of bourbon

dash of peach bitters

gently stir mixture in desired glass (sherry glass or champagne work nicely)

Next, 'twas time to get down and dirty with the main course. We had all the classics---turkey, stuffing, cranberry sauce, heaps of smashed potatoes---to pair with our wine selections. Adelsheim's 2010 Auxerrois was light and crisp enough to fight off the indispensable heavy butterfat and seriously had me refreshed after every sip (or gulp...), but Patrimonio's 2010 Clos Alivu rosé paired best with basically everything on my plate. We showed some local urban winery love and brought Vincent's Pinot Noir, and, just 'cause we enjoy a little kitsch every now and again, drank black bubbles.

Whew! I'm stuffed bigger than this turkey, but the hour is nary 5. Time to put my homemade mini pumpkin pies (with graham cracker crusts & freshly whipped almond cream!) in the oven and take down another cocktail. Manhattans all around!

For our warm petite pies (I probably ate 3...) we delighted in a split of Arbor Brook's Sauternes-esque 2008 Sydney Semillon ($28). Oh sweet golden heaven.

After dark? A game of Dominoes, bed time for the smaller humans, and "just-leftovers:" a round of turkey sandwiches. To top off the now-late-night event, we sat down for muted football, home videos, impromptu piano performances, and finally indulged in another helping of pie before passing out for a long night of satisfying slumber.

[cock]Tails of Good Taste

After a nice long 15 hours at the winery I had a serious hankering for a good cocktail. With my favorite 'tails in town being too far off the route home, I headed straight to my apartment for a little mixology experiment.

Chartreuse is the most magical and mysterious liquor---it's gorgeous, tastes incredible on it's own, and can add complexity to just about any drink with nary a dash. I knew that was going into my shaker, so I made my own take on the Alaska; I call it The Duchess:

3 parts Small's Gin (or any bold flavored gin)

1/2 parts Chartreuse

dash of Angostura Bitters

Shake with ice, serve straight up garnished with a twist of lemon peel. Totally hits the spot.

 ♥ devon

Wines for Feasting

Thanks to Katharine Cole of MIX magazine for mentioning us! They asked me to recommend my favorite PNW gems  best suited for a Thanksgiving feast. Seeing as those wines are mostly small production and may sell out quickly, I figured we'd throw out a few more for your Turkey filled table.

 Jaquère Montmeliwhat?

Jean Vullien Savoie Blanc Jaquère, Montmelian 11.50$

The only non northwest wine of the bunch, this is the steal of steals at $11.50. We've gushed about Jean Vullien's Mondeuse on multiple occasions and this white is just as good.  Bright lemon/lime and subtle herb all prop up a backbone of stony minerality. This wine is extremely well balanced. The citrus notes work wonderfully with lemon zested green beans, and it's touch of fresh basil makes this a perfect white wine for light turkey meat and savory stuffing. A salty caramel finish comes as a delightful surprise, allowing the wine to pair with dishes such as caramelized onion tart. Oh, and for those wondering, Jaquère is the grape and Montmelian is one of the 17 cru's of Savoie in southeastern France :)

Together We Shall Rule The Galaxy as Father and Daughter*

Et Fille 2009 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 23$

Oregon Pinot Noir is a classic Thanksgiving pairing, and at this price its hard to find a better 2009. Using a blend of fruit from multiple premium vineyards, father/daughter wine making team Howard Mozeico and Jessica Mozeico-Blair have crafted a Pinot that is silky-smooth while still maintaining it's bright acidity. The harmonious balance and gorgeous mouthfeel are two qualities we've found lacking in other 2009 Willamette Valley Pinots (it was a very hot year).  Fresh pipe tobacco and blackberry jump out of the glass while rich baking spice coats the palate. It's a stand-out stuffing and turkey wine, rich enough for dark meat but light and fresh enough for light, and it's got enough body to stand up to any other meat on the table.

Venison and Violets

Enso 2010 old vine Mourvedre, Bella Grace Vineyards 28$-----Just released Nov. 1st and only available at ENSO Winery and Tasting Lounge.

This wine smells of chalky chocolate covered blueberries and your grandfather's old leather chair that's been hiding in the attic for decades. Surprisingly dusty despite it's youth, this Mourvedre tastes like no other wine being made in the northwest. The tannins are soft but omnipresent while the acid is bright enough to make it perfect as the centerpiece of a Thanksgiving table. The palate is full of  peppery venison jerky and licorice covered rocks; it's a stellar match for meats, stuffing, cranberry sauce and cheeses.

We'd love to hear what will be on your table for the holiday--send us your Thanksgiving selections, and happy feasting! ---Brent

*No relation to the Skywalker family.

the Busy Season

Dear Autumn, it's been a fun harvest season, but I miss my wife.

Pinot Gris harvest is hand sorted at Rex Hill Vineyards.

For the winemaker, fall is a season of constant preparation, incessant measuring, meticulous cleaning, lifting, organizing, mixing, watching, driving, and recording---not to mention being sticky and wet, fearful of bunch-dwelling spiders, and most likely falling on your ass a few times.

Ryan Lee Sharp (winemaker, Enso Winery) transports 4 tons of Malbec and Counoise into the winery for hand-sorting and de-stemming. He and his partner, Chris Wishart, will harvest numerous tons of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Pinot Gris, Mourvedre, Reisling, and more throughout the season. And this is a small production wine joint!

Wine as Art
Tons of grapes are picked, hand sorted, de-stemmed, transferred into fermentation bins, and cold soaked to encourage vivid color and complexity. After days of cold soaking, grapes are inoculated with yeasts, and fermentation begins. Yeast eats away at the grape's natural sugars and produces alcohol over several days. Sugar + Yeast = Alcohol, CO2, & Heat. Throughout the fermentation process, CO2 pushes grape skins and seeds (must) to the top, forming a tough cap which is punched down into the juice multiple times each day. When brix (sugar levels) and alcohol levels are ideal, wine is pressed into barrel or tank, aged for months, and finally bottled for further aging---and finally---release. Every winemaker has a unique process; a different approach; a special concept. All this work results in an inspiring, romantic, piece of art.

Braun and Sharp scoop the dregs of fermented Zinfandel pomace into the press.

Autumn Pick

2006 Chemin de Terre by A to Z Wineworks, Southern Oregon. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Sangiovese, etc. It's like you're hanging out with Bruce in the Bat Cave---we're talking cool, wet slate and clay with chalky, perfumed bramble berries and dark blueberries to finish. Without being too weighty, Chemin de Terre--or, Dirt Road--is an easily accessible and comforting taste for the dreary seasons. We sipped, we liked, we recommend for $20.

the Nightly Table

2007 Sineann Merlot, Hillside Vineyards, Columbia Valley WA ($25). This guy is like that well-fitted black velvet glove that perfectly accessorizes your decadent inner-1980's celebrity. We all have one of those--right?! Pairing suggestion: Rogue Creamery blue cheese, the oh-so-spicy Olli Sulameria Calabrese, and Madonna's Like a Virgin on vinyl.

Lovely youthfully robust Mondeuse. This wine is so versatile, I would open a good Vin de Savoie on any old night or for a special occasion. Domain Jean Vullien et Fils VDS St-Jean de la Porte $15.

Pyrenees Vineyard & Cellars 2005 Pinot Noir, $20---We went a little Mythbuster's on the "perfect pairing: Oregon Pinot Noir + PNW salmon" rumors. Our experience? One may have to do quite a bit of digging to find a stellar Pinot for the fish. Your best bet is a well aged, light and dusty cool-vintage Pinot. The Pyenees, though big and delicious in it's own right, struggled with the salmon's bold flavors, and left us feeling somewhat awkward... perhaps roast chicken would suit it best.

 

Wishing you a happy Autumn of good friends and fabulous libations! --Devon.

Over the Hill

I recently told a regular that I've never really had a high-end aged wine that's gone/going over the hill. Being the gentleman that he is, he brought me a bottle of 1970 Freemark Abbey Cabernet Napa Valley, Bosche Vineyard. He warned us that the wine was past its prime and would fade in the glass within 20 minutes of opening.

We decanted to remove sediment. It was acutally a bit tight, but only for about 2 minutes. It quickly opened up and was an absolute charm for the next 8. After 15, it had maderized in the glass. To watch this wine fade like a old western cowboy riding into the sunset was a fun--albeit very sad--experiment.

Initial tasting notes said "Burnt earth, black tea, fig and dried cherry on the nose while the palate showed very little fruit, a hint maybe of blackberry and cola, but mostly forest floor and leaves. Gorgeous balanced mouthfeel with bright acidity and soft tannins"---Uh oh 5 minutes later, "cinnamon toast crunch nutmeg, nuts madiera type quality." Boo.

Giacosa [jikosuh] noun.

"If one were to cut the arm of a Piemontese, he would bleed Dolcetto."

Bruno Giacosa is considered the last word in Italian wine, and Bruno himself, the genius of Neive (traditions of excellence have continued since his daughter Bruna took the reigns.) I had the lovely opportunity to soak in some of these heart-warming masterpieces at Liner & Elsen Wine Merchants. If you haven't stopped in their shop on NW 23rd, I highly recommend a nice little pursue.

I have to say Italians have never been my passion, but these wines stoked an undying flame of love. Oh, the expensive tastes...


2009 Roero Arneis
2009 Dolcetto d'Alba
2007 Barbera d'Alba
2005 Barbaresco Rabaja
2005 & 2007 Barbaresco Santo Stefano
2007 Barbaresco Asili
2005 Barolo Falletto
2005 Barolo Le Rocche del Falletto

Cin Cin! ♥ Devon.

Eating and Drinking Japan

We just returned from a culinary adventure in Japan! Check out our photo set for recommendations HERE. Our dream of following in Bourdain's Osaka footsteps finally came true!

The World's Most Important Wine Book

...is a comic! I seriously can't wait for the English release of Drops of God on October 4. Read the hilarious article from Gilt Taste HERE. I know I sure swoon over a man's decanting skills---soooooo hot.

♥ Devon

Recent Tastes

2001 Rauzan Segla (Margaux, France) &
2002 Thelema Cabernet (Stellenbosch, South Africa)
with bone marrow by Little Bird.
After this meal, we can all can die happy.

Enso Winery's newly bottled Mourvèdre.
Keep an eye out for this sultry & spicy wine after it's Autumn release. 

A night of Pinot with Phelps Creek and Domaine Drouhin. Yum!

Battle rosè!
Provence vs. Bandol.
Castel des Maures vs. Domaine Ott.
Who takes home the trophy?!
Well, we do---for getting to drink these incredible wines!

On the Waterfront

More Mourvèdre?! I must be addicted or something. I just enjoyed a bodacious bottle of Zerba Mourvèdre on a spectacular evening spent snacking on the riverfront at Thrist Wine Bar.

Zerba has some pretty offerings coming out of Washington. Their 2007 Mourvèdre---blended with 10% of each Syrah & Grenache (remember GSM?)---is all fruit harvested from the Columbia Valley. This wine is pretty much sold out, but their 2008 GSM (33% each varietal from Walla Walla, WA) is on my list of wines to try. 

What jumbled mess of descriptors did I scribble on my napkin? So glad you asked: Intense ripe juicy blackberries. Rich red licorice and sultry coconut lime vanilla. Hawaiian hibiscus sexy vacay with a touch of spice. Toasted cedar. Fresh roasted hazelnuts. Earthy mushroom. Phenom tannins, ultra complex extremely lengthy but bright blue-blackberry spritz. The best artisan dark chocolate liqueur-filled truffle ever. Subtle. Regal. Silky. Beautiful.

And as Brent so admiringly phrased, "Man, that nose is just bombastically good."

Film Taste

Watching a movie should be an experience; I just can't help but fall into the ditch with every character. So I started thinking, "what pairs best with what we watch?" We've matched loads of drinks with tasty food on Blush Naked, and now it's time for the next level in ultimate pairing!

The Flick: Control

Here we delve into the abstruse tortured life of Joy Division's Ian Curtis. The film is jam-packed with apathetic brooding and bleak indecisiveness oozing from the enigmatic front-man. Be warned: intense melancholy may last for days following your Control experience, but it's totally worth it.

On the Table:

British cask ale (at room temp)---we are, after all, enjoying some English history.

Black Russians (1 part Kahlua + 2 parts Vodka over ice)---dark & lamenting.

A bottle of Jameson Irish Whiskey---smooth but intense for maximum agony.

A pack of cigarettes

Plenty of painkillers

Get the following day off work. Ruminate. Maybe next time we'll enjoy a more "uplifting" movie...

Grillin n' Chillin

Check out these bad-boys!

friends + grill + sunshine = excellent excuse for celebration (math is fun!)

Charlie's backyard chickens were sure pleased that we were grilling cow. We needed something in the realm of juicy-savory-spicy-sultry to pair with a rockin marinated tri-tip, so after enjoying our food-prep aperitifs we uncorked a few winning bottles (and a little 5th growth Bordeaux thanks to papa Wassenmiller! How awesome is life? So awesome!) We scarfed down roasted beets and loads of veggies from Charlie's own micro-farm, leaving us with dufus-sized grins on our faces.

. . . eats . . .

salted cucumber salad.

roasted red beets with sliced avocado, blueberries, nuts, and crumbled goat cheese.

grilled tri-tip steak, marinated teriyaki style & seasoned to juicy perfection.

. . . drinks . . .

Ridge 2009 Paso Robles Zinfandel

light n' spicy yum yum fruit! We know what that tastes like... right?!

Château Cantemerle 2000 Haut-Médoc

earthy heaven, D'Artagnan! now THAT's a haut bottle! ;)

Revisited

We opened this Artist Series Meritage a little over a year ago and loved it; thanks to papa Braun we got to take put our tastebuds on a flashback montage. That's right: whoa, smokey-slate! Vanilla-blueberry-chocolate-cake! Yes, amaretto-cured-cocktail-cherries! Bam, silky-smooth-juicy-awesomeness! Thank you Chateau Ste Michelle for making something that rocks my socks like it's 2001.

What it's all about

In the bottle---It's Meritage, baby! That means we get all the tasty Bordeaux grapes in one pretty bottle. 

Fine wines---Chateau SM makes a ton of vino, but in celebration of artisan winemaking and fine art, they've been creating an array of really neat "Artist Series" wines since 1993. This 2001 Meritage features a sculpted glass piece by Richard Marquis.

Stats---the fruit comes from Columbia Valley, Washington. At 14.2% abv, this wine should be hot, but we think it's quite nicely balanced. Unfortunately this wine is all gone, but it used to cost a cool $Ulysses S Grant.

As Enrique Iglesias likes to say, I like it; and as Billy Idol once expressed, I want more more more.

Summer Evenings in Stumptown

Backyard picnicking with good friends goes really well with a little Viognier and Evening Land's Gamay Celebrations. And Syncline is doing some tasty things up in Red Mountain, WA, and heck, it may be the hottest week of the year (I hope!) but we can't get enough Mourvèdre---ever.

I recently described my love for the Mourvèdre grape (and it's difficult pronunciation) to a coworker who replied "Ooo---sounds kindof erotic!" Indeed, the stuff is chalk-full of magical, manly, meaty awesomeness. Syncline is, sadly, totally sold out of their 2009, but if you have an approaching special occasion and are interested in sampling this bewitching grape, here's a quick guide to finding the stuff:

Mourvèdre is a variety of many names, which can get a touch confusing. Remember: Mourvèdre (or Balzac) in France; Montastrell in Spain; Mataró in Australia + Portugal.

Bodacious blends: Mourvèdre, Grenache, and Syrah make for one abfab blend of the classic Rhone varieties, affectionately known as GSM.

From where? Bandol (on the Mediterranean coast of France) gives us kick-ass Mourvèdre, and gorgeous rosés for summer sipping; You're probably safe buying any wine from here or the surrounding Provence region.

We love:

Domain Tempier (France > Provence > Bandol) Mourvèdre, Grenache, Cinsault (Syrah, Carignan in some blends.)

Chateau Salettes (France > Provence > Bandol) Mourvèdre, Grenache, Carignan.

Bunell Cellars (Washington > Whaluke Slope) 100% Mourvèdre. 

Torbreck Cuvee Juveniles (Australia > Barossa Valley) Grenache, Shiraz, Mataró.

Happy hunting!

Officially The Man.

Brent Braun, Sommelier

He manages an Oregon tasting room, works the floor in a riverfront wine bar + bistro, pours at an urban winery, and wine-geeks out at every opportune moment.  He attends numerous trade tastings and industry events.  He sips, mingles, and munches in the vineyard with fellow connoisseurs.  His basement is filling up with ageing bottles.  He's even dabbled in distribution with a local French and Aussie importer.  At just 25 years old, Brent Braun is a certified Sommelier.

Being Certified

To prepare for the exam, numerous bottles of bubbly had to be opened (to the point that it bordered on drudgery to drink sparkling) in practicing the meticulous proper service standards.  Still more wines were opened for blind tasting practice.  Hours and hours went into the study of wine, laws, origins, terminology, producers, spirits and cocktails.  Exam day arrived and seemed to stick around for ages, but Braun finally returned victorious---a CMS pin affixed smartly to his lapel and a congratulatory bottle of Hardy's VSOP Cognac waiting for him.

What Comes Next

"Yes, victory tastes quite sweet.... oh wait no, that's my Budweiser,"  Brent jokes that stuffing one's head with nothing but grapes can leave the brain quite overbearingly wine-soaked, and he's ready for a little vacation---"I can drink whatever I want!"  Looks like it's all Coors Lite and Millers High Life from here on out!  Heeyah.

Rex Hill Summer Carnival!

What more could a girl ask for than wine-soaked sno-cones in the summertime?  hm... do I want chilly shaved ice with Riesling + melon,  "big red" with blueberry, or strawberry Chardonnay? Can't decide... must... try... all! Mike Willison (PR, Education & Events Mgr) thought of everything when putting this shindig together. There was live music, corn on the grill, hot buttery popcorn, so much pie, a dunk tank, even fully loaded hot dogs by Wayne's Chicago Red Hots. Winemaker Michael Davies stood by his giant steel tanks to pour his impressive Rex Hill 2009 Willamette Valley & 2007 Reserve Pinots. Jeroboams (that's 4 bottles in 1!) of 1995 & 1997 Pinot Noir were passed around. Carrie Stigge (Direct Sales Manager) wandered the grounds with the coveted, once in a lifetime, Old Vine Chardonnay. 

Ingredients for biodynamic farming.

Viticulturalist Ryan Collins led us on a mud-filled vine tour through the hills which contribute to both Rex Hill and AtoZ wines. We ruminated on viticulture as he proudly showed off the newly constructed biodynamic free-flow waterfall, his home-grown compost piles, and baby grape clusters.

Home grown biodynamic compost---now THAT'S some healthy dirt!

Even though we have a load of Rex Hill bottles (we love these guys) in the basement "cellar" ;) we had to pick up a bottle of Pinot to bring on our California trip next week for show and tell with the family! What a party! 

Evening Land at Seven Springs Vineyard

This was a gorgeous summer day in Oregon.  In fact, it was the first sun of the season, and dare I say, perhaps the last because we've had nothing but rain clouds since (in mid-July!)

We trekked out to Eola-Amity for a relaxing afternoon with Evening Land Vineyards. The day was spent lounging on haystacks with friends in the barn,  enjoying appetizers by El Goucho, and tromping through the renowned Seven Springs Vineyards with a pair of trusty hounds to the serenade of  summery bluegrass twang. Mix Magazine's Katharine Cole graced the scene and shared with us her recently published Voodoo Vintners, in representation of SSV's biodynamic practices. At the winemaking helm here is Isabelle Meunier, whose impeccable Pinot Noir and flirtatious Chardonnay is undoubtedly an achievement of great care and passion. When reaching the vineyard's peak we were greeted with Pinot Noir made in the old-school feminine Burgundies style---at perfectly cool drinking temp, I might add!

Ian pouring Summum for Mike, me, and Brent.

The 2009 La Source Estate Pinot and 2008 Summum, are a true pleasure (at $45 and $60 respectively.)  If you have the cash to burn on something really special, the 2009 Seven Springs Vineyard La Source Chardonnay ($60) takes the cake, though for $15 less one can pick up the simpler, yet still playful, Mad Hatter.  And, although the 2008 SSV Summum Chardonnay is down right spectacular, one should not, in their right mind, be persuading their wallet to relinquish $120.    These are not your every day wines, and of course if all you need is a delight to cool the mid-year heat, grab the juicy 2010 Celebration (Gamay) for just 20 bones.

A Gritty Pair

Grits!  Never has a food been more ironic than in this tiny cornmeal form.  Southern states slop grits on plastic plates at Waffle House next to scrambled eggs and bacon or fried chicken n' waffles ($4-$7.)  Once upon a time I lived in Birmingham, Alabama and built up a true fear of such gut-busting southern traditions.  In years since I've come to find that us fancy coastal residents also eat grits... but we call it Polenta, serve it for brunch with pancetta, fennel and poached eggs, or for dinner alongside wild boar ragu, and even with marscapone and rosemary-braised lamb shank ($10-$30.)  After noticing so many tasty dishes on my favorite menus around town, I put my preconceptions aside and dove into the realm of grit.  And guess what?  Grits are delicious and can be paired with drink far beyond the PBR tallboy.

At home I made creamy parmesean grits with caramelized shallots as a side for seared bay scallops and green-tea butter jus.  My-oh-my did our 2009 Cormons Isonzo de Friuli Pinot Grigio ($19) shine with the dish.  A later attempt at savory grits and sauteed vegitables proved miraculous with De Trafford's 2005 oaked (!) South African Chenin Blanc ($17.)

Portland's polenta!
Irving Street Kitchen aged hanger steak, roasted garlic grits, dino kale, seared eggs + bacon madeira sauce
                                        roasted crawdad + manila clam creole, grits, smoked cippolini + cajun xo
Delta Cafe blackened snapper with grilled garlic + cheese grits (maaaybe it's okay to pair with a bucket of PBR 40s this time... doin' it southern style!)
Nel Centro spit roasted pork loin with creamy polenta + stone fruit chutney
Lauro Kitchen braised beef short ribs with fried polenta + rapini
Screen Door braised carlton farms pork belly, gulf shrimp + creamy grits