11.06.2012

Gaga for Gamay

Gamay Noir is one of my favorite grapes-turned-wine (remember by birthday party?!). It's a rare find in the states, having first been imported through California just 40 years ago, but is an historically important variety in the old world. In France Gamay is somewhat of a versatile muse. In Beaujolais, we find an array of styles ranging from deliciously effervescent "Nouveau," to the best Cru vineyards creation of serious and strong dry wines. Elsewhere in France, the grape is conspicuous in the Loire Valley, Jura, and Savoie---each of which showcase particular styles from dry and partially carbonic Gamay. 

Beaujolais had a bad rap for a time, mainly due to the American palates' preference toward intense, full-bodied, heavily oaked red wines. Beaujolais Nouveau is the extreme opposite to a hefty Aussie Shiraz. It is airy, fruitilicious, and made for immediate consumption via carbonic maceration for harvest festival every year. What is carbonic, you ask? Simply put, it's the process of breaking down whole berries in an atmosphere of carbon dioxide (carbon-ic!) instead of oxygen. While sugars and acids soften, all the little polyphenols from the skins start transferring color and boosting flavors and aromas inside the fruit. When the berries reach a low alcohol point they burst open, producing refreshingly light and fruity juice that is ready to ferment further!



Another common practice for---but not limited to---Gamay is semi-carbonic, in which some of the fruit is crushed to allow a more usual oxygen-rich, yeast-induced fermentation, while remaining whole grapes continue anaerobic style, without oxygen. For those interested, I found an amazing carbonic maceration "game" by Eric Pearson which makes learning the process super quick and fun.

For the coming winter I'll cozy up with a nice Cru, and dream of warmer days when we're ready to pop open a chilled bottle of Beaujolais. Mm mm.

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