Of Birds & Crabs

Tradition insists fresh crab marries with a buttery Chardonnay, or perhaps a Sauvignon Blanc or bright Champagne, but we grabbed a bottle of 2006 Kestrel Raptor House Viognier ($20) for our messy afternoon of Dungeness. The lush white wine melded harmoniously to the rich sea flavors of the butter-drizzled crustacean, bringing out its subtly sweet and oaky lemon characteristics. This is an easy drinking wine that shows best with food, so enjoy on a picnic or a sunny Autumn lunch.

Also try from Kestrel: the 2005 Estate Malbec ($40) for a devilishly desirable, gritty black ink seduction sauce. Think: Adrien Brody-- the epitome of class and quirky intellect. Tall, dark, and unassumingly handsome.