Urban

Brrr! The streets are all a chill in the rain, but tonight I'm lucky to be comfy and warm inside. Some of my foodie-cohorts joined me for a fabulous coursed dinner at Urban Farmer. Thanks to our lovely server designing his "dream menu" for us, we didn't even glance at a menu! It really is the best way to eat. We were happy to get lost in a menagerie of plates and flatware. There was scrumptious shrimp, elegantly plated cheese & charcuterie, gargantuan scallops, an intermezzo (!), juicy steak, perfectly roasted veggies... and my personal favorite, a stunning cut of foie gras over sweetbreads and soft peach. On and on and on! Don't even get me started on the deserts.

Did you think we forgot about the wine? No way! We grabbed a bottle of 2004 Chablis to kick it off, and moved with leisure on to a few weighty reds: a supple 1995 Mondavi Reserve and the oh-so-steely-love-fest of 2003 Clos de Capucins Chinon---this is, after all, a steakhouse. After ordering a fourth bottle came a lovely Amarone for a grand finale of sweets, and a post-feast shot of espresso paired with Fernet (a tradition I plan to uphold whenever the opportunity presents itself!)

Gaga for Gamay

Gamay Noir is one of my favorite grapes-turned-wine (remember by birthday party?!). It's a rare find in the states, having first been imported through California just 40 years ago, but is an historically important variety in the old world. In France Gamay is somewhat of a versatile muse. In Beaujolais, we find an array of styles ranging from deliciously effervescent "Nouveau," to the best Cru vineyards creation of serious and strong dry wines. Elsewhere in France, the grape is conspicuous in the Loire Valley, Jura, and Savoie---each of which showcase particular styles from dry and partially carbonic Gamay. 

Beaujolais had a bad rap for a time, mainly due to the American palates' preference toward intense, full-bodied, heavily oaked red wines. Beaujolais Nouveau is the extreme opposite to a hefty Aussie Shiraz. It is airy, fruitilicious, and made for immediate consumption via carbonic maceration for harvest festival every year. What is carbonic, you ask? Simply put, it's the process of breaking down whole berries in an atmosphere of carbon dioxide (carbon-ic!) instead of oxygen. While sugars and acids soften, all the little polyphenols from the skins start transferring color and boosting flavors and aromas inside the fruit. When the berries reach a low alcohol point they burst open, producing refreshingly light and fruity juice that is ready to ferment further!

Another common practice for---but not limited to---Gamay is semi-carbonic, in which some of the fruit is crushed to allow a more usual oxygen-rich, yeast-induced fermentation, while remaining whole grapes continue anaerobic style, without oxygen. For those interested, I found an amazing carbonic maceration "game" by Eric Pearson which makes learning the process super quick and fun.

For the coming winter I'll cozy up with a nice Cru, and dream of warmer days when we're ready to pop open a chilled bottle of Beaujolais. Mm mm.

Label Lust

While I never buy wine solely for the label, I certainly get giddy over a great design. Check out a few of our recent bottles---featuring stylish and clever branding with juice just as tasty to match (pleasing tongue, nose and eyes!):

"The Raven"

the Bourgeoise gentleman of Bugey.

a toast, to "the little April wine"

Cook it, Chill it, Drink it!

I am all about Sherry right now. It's great to cook with---both in the pan and in your mouth---is super affordable, easy to keep around, and is super versatile. I baked a pie with a dry sherry this week, and it was phenomenal! Even this cheap Lustau Amontillado (slightly sweet) tastes delish as a chilled apéritif while marinating mushrooms to juicy perfection. I often prefer sherry over the use of white or red wines throughout the cooking process due to it's amazing viscous texture with complex sweetness and salinity that makes for some kick-ass deglazing. Yummy!

And, though I've never owned a proper ice bucket, I find my french press looks quite dapper as an alternative for chilling split bottles. Cute!

Cab Franc: on Trend this Fall

I've noticed Cab Franc has been all the rage this year, and it seems the hype will lead us straight through Autumn. Some of my favorite expressions of this grape come straight-up from France---no blending necessary---more specifically Bourgueil. The region, besides being one of my favorite words to say [pronounced: bore-goy!], is one of roughly six sections in the Loire Valley known for the variety, and is perhaps the greatest "French-drinker's" Cab Franc, featuring less fruity, angular characteristics of gravel and spice. Our recent faves:

Domaine du Mortier Boisard et Fils - 2008 St. Nicolas de Bourgueil Graviers

This soul-satisfying wine is latent with iron, slate, & steel, though manages quite well in keepin' it funky-fresh with some rustic blueberry & wintery spices. Mortier's wines are wild and beautiful, and besides sporting très cute labels (they know how to get me!) become ever more charming through the magic of Google Translate: "we find in this wine quite pronounced fruit notes and then move to more complex notes of spices and often type 'animal.'" Adorable and delicious.

Domaine Bruno Dufeu - 2008 Cuvée Grand Mont Bourgueil
Oh, oh, oh!---am I drinking Spanish coffee? It's got all that fresh, voluminous pizzaz with mineral, slate, and caramelized sugars, & a hefty dose of meaty texture. My palate is pleased.