A Rhône on the Prairie

Sweet home California! We escaped back to the homeland---and to lovely sunshine---for a few days of tasting in Paso Robles! The cute little town is roughly 2 hours south of Monterey Bay where I grew up, and a mere half hour from the beach! The Rhône Rangers down there are so named for their affinity toward Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, as well as Viognier and some rockin' Roussane/Marsanne (plus they're cowboys). Ancient sea-creature fossils and limestone (which make up calcareous marl/shale & linne calodo soils) in the vineyard ultimately give the wines of Paso some killer minerality. The terrain is diverse in a way that can only be described as magical. It's hot and gorgeous year-round. It's hilly dessert up one road and gentle forest down another. Huge buzzards circle the vineyards for pesky vermin as the head-trained vines push their roots through the limestone rich earth. After picnicking and exploring to our hearts content, we only wanted more!

Everything was delicious. So we brought home a few *ahem* souvenirs...

...and hope to someday return, if only for Los Robles' out-of-this-world Al Pastor tacos! And some Denner Viognier...

A Night at the Vineyard

Meet my two new friends, Drachenstein and Klosterberg. They've come all the way from the Rheingau to visit with us for the evening. Both are 100% pure-bred German Reisling, and hail from the same vineyard in the same year (2003). One's a little sweeter than the other (he's a Trockenbeerenauslese, after all) but let's be honest, they don't come much more wholesome than this. After a night of sheer Pinocity, a little chocolate caramel covered popcorn with these little sweeties really hit the spot. But I'm getting ahead of myself!

We were gifted with a small window of sunshine, so we thought it the perfect time to spend at the Archery Summit vineyard house. Talk about living like kings! Not only did we have a deck overlooking the stunning Renegade Ridge Vineyard and beyond, but each of the five rooms had beds so large they were square! Naturally, as one does in such a situation, we pulled the cork on numerous bottles to celebrate our brief getaway (so much Pinot Noir).

Then we played a lot of pingpong and woke up to gorgeous foggy vines out the window...

And the day continued with an awesome walkabout and taste through Sokol Blosser's lineup. Do you think we over-did it with all that Pinot? Wait, too much Pinot?! I think not!

Rex Hill Summer Carnival!

What more could a girl ask for than wine-soaked sno-cones in the summertime?  hm... do I want chilly shaved ice with Riesling + melon,  "big red" with blueberry, or strawberry Chardonnay? Can't decide... must... try... all! Mike Willison (PR, Education & Events Mgr) thought of everything when putting this shindig together. There was live music, corn on the grill, hot buttery popcorn, so much pie, a dunk tank, even fully loaded hot dogs by Wayne's Chicago Red Hots. Winemaker Michael Davies stood by his giant steel tanks to pour his impressive Rex Hill 2009 Willamette Valley & 2007 Reserve Pinots. Jeroboams (that's 4 bottles in 1!) of 1995 & 1997 Pinot Noir were passed around. Carrie Stigge (Direct Sales Manager) wandered the grounds with the coveted, once in a lifetime, Old Vine Chardonnay. 

Ingredients for biodynamic farming.

Viticulturalist Ryan Collins led us on a mud-filled vine tour through the hills which contribute to both Rex Hill and AtoZ wines. We ruminated on viticulture as he proudly showed off the newly constructed biodynamic free-flow waterfall, his home-grown compost piles, and baby grape clusters.

Home grown biodynamic compost---now THAT'S some healthy dirt!

Even though we have a load of Rex Hill bottles (we love these guys) in the basement "cellar" ;) we had to pick up a bottle of Pinot to bring on our California trip next week for show and tell with the family! What a party! 

Evening Land at Seven Springs Vineyard

This was a gorgeous summer day in Oregon.  In fact, it was the first sun of the season, and dare I say, perhaps the last because we've had nothing but rain clouds since (in mid-July!)

We trekked out to Eola-Amity for a relaxing afternoon with Evening Land Vineyards. The day was spent lounging on haystacks with friends in the barn,  enjoying appetizers by El Goucho, and tromping through the renowned Seven Springs Vineyards with a pair of trusty hounds to the serenade of  summery bluegrass twang. Mix Magazine's Katharine Cole graced the scene and shared with us her recently published Voodoo Vintners, in representation of SSV's biodynamic practices. At the winemaking helm here is Isabelle Meunier, whose impeccable Pinot Noir and flirtatious Chardonnay is undoubtedly an achievement of great care and passion. When reaching the vineyard's peak we were greeted with Pinot Noir made in the old-school feminine Burgundies style---at perfectly cool drinking temp, I might add!

Ian pouring Summum for Mike, me, and Brent.

The 2009 La Source Estate Pinot and 2008 Summum, are a true pleasure (at $45 and $60 respectively.)  If you have the cash to burn on something really special, the 2009 Seven Springs Vineyard La Source Chardonnay ($60) takes the cake, though for $15 less one can pick up the simpler, yet still playful, Mad Hatter.  And, although the 2008 SSV Summum Chardonnay is down right spectacular, one should not, in their right mind, be persuading their wallet to relinquish $120.    These are not your every day wines, and of course if all you need is a delight to cool the mid-year heat, grab the juicy 2010 Celebration (Gamay) for just 20 bones.

Gone with the Wind(erlea)

A modern-chique tasting room at Winderlea balances atop the graceful, snow-dusted hills of Dundee. While the vines are sleeping, we thankfully sip on classic, pretty, Oregon Pinots and magically austere Chardonnay. Bottles here are are not only affordable, but wildly delicious. Winderlea's 2007 Chardonnay ($30) is not your electric-yellow, butter-fat layden, warm climate (*cough* California) showing; it certainly shined in the glass, down the throat, and every step in-between--impressive tastes from a five-vintage-old winery.

Somms on the Road

My ISG Sommelier class, led by instructor Savannah Ray (Sommelier, ten01), recently trekked out to Oregon wine country for some rockin' tastings. Here's where we ventured:

Argyle -- the highest rated non-champagne sparkling in the world.

Argyle uses impressive modern and antique machines to make their bubbles the traditional way (méthode champenoise seen right), and remain one of the select few who attempt to create such airy delights.

Phenomenal Argyle tastes:

• elegant roses & strawberries - the 2007 Brut Rosé (90 pts Wine Spectator, $50).
• robust - 2007 "Nuthouse" Pinot Noir ($50).
• salty toasted hazelnut "Nuthouse" Chardonnay (92pts Wine Spectator, $33).

Cristom -- "letting the land make the wines," and doing a damn fine job of it.

We wandered the sleeping vineyards with Cristom winemaker Steve Doerner who explained that great wine starts in the soil. After cozying ourselves in the tasting room, we worked through three flights and a vertical featuring "Margorie" Pinot Noir, vintages 1996 through 1999.

Phenomenal Cristom Pinots:

• 2007 Margorie
• 2007 Louise
• 2006 Lea

Evening Land -- Burgundy's superstar winemaker Dominique LaFon + EL's winemaster Isabelle Meunier = top tier, classic Pinot.

After touring Evening Land's modern warehouse facility and tasting a plethora of wines, Ken Pahlow (winemaker of Walter Scott) presented an egregiously long syphon for our barrel tasting pleasure. His 2010 fuscia-tastic Gamay (Beaujolais Nouveau anyone?) was fresh and young, while the not-quite-mature Pinot Gris popped out of the glass, and his Pinot Blanc earned ♥ ♥. I am really looking forward to the release of these Walter Scotts!

Phenomenal Evening Land tastes:

• orange zest and subtle oak infused 2008 Red Queen Pinot Noir (93 pts Wine Advocate, $90) is a member of the prestigious top tier white label line, said to represent the "pinnacle... of the vineyard's best self."
• another white label member, the 2008 Seven Springs Vineyard Summom Chardonnay (95 pts Wine Spectator, $116!!), exhibits saltwater taffy, magical acidity, and fresh creaminess.

Brand Management

I can't think of a rainy evening better spent than wine tasting at an intimate warehouse artist space, and Monday gave me exactly that.

After anxiously awaiting a run in with Beaux Frères wines, we finally got to try their light, dusty mauve Pinot Noirs, which were described by our humorous taster as having great "Pinocity," meaning "the typicity of Pinot." Though most Beaux Freres wines (co-owned by celebrity reviewer Robert Parker) are a bit above the invisible line of affordability, their lower end "preview" wine, Les Cousins 2009 ($24), has solid spunk.

I was really in the mood for white (in contrast to the stormy weather) and a particularly light and tropical Viognier by J Scott caressed my imagination with soft pastels. I imagined it to be something Marie Antionette might have enjoyed on warm evenings at her summer estate.

We adored wines by Francis Tannahill (esp the 2007 'Dragonfly' Gewurzt) and highly recommend the under $20 Pinot selections by Redman.

Besides there being superlative local vinos, the quaint kitchen produced fantastic snacks: salted marcona almonds lightly toasted in sunflower oil, the best tapenade I have ever popped in my mouth, creamy pâté, salami, and a selection of cheeses to pair.

Bubbles in the Night

Odom distribution's second annual bubbles party was brimming with exuberant Champagne fanatics. In a bustling room such as this, it's hard to miss how bubbles can brighten smiles, inspire fantastic food pairings (chocolate covered strawberries!), and bring a positive, sprightly energy to any evening.

We shared delicate classics like Veuve, Mumm, and Perrier Jouet, discovered some unique tastes like the perfumey honied-peach of Gavi by Villa Sparina ($20), and enjoyed previous favorites such as Shingleback's beautiful Black Bubbles ($20), which I plan on employing as a fantastic base in homemade ice cream floats for desert this Thanksgiving!

Wine in the Warehouse with Estelle Imports

I find the warehouse is a fitting scene for an industry tasting. Estelle Imports showed selections from Italy, Spain, France, and the North West.

Some of our favorite finds:

• Angel Vine Columbia Valley 08 "the Hellion" ($22): 72% Primitivo blended with Petite Syrah. An interesting combination, and an interesting wine! I get a dirty, tasty zing of smooth, synthetic blueberries and a light stone characteristic.
• Marco Porello 08 Nebbiolo d'Alba ($18): the most awesome juice box you ever had in elementary school.
• Rouge Queues 08 Santenay: comforting toasty cracker with nicely integrated tannic rubber.
• Bodegas Juan Manuel Burgos Rivera del Duero Roble 08 "Fescenino:" short takes on the long winded title-- Brent says "best deal of the day," Caitlin exclaims, "oh my god." Yes, this jammy, American-esque Spanish red is tasty and affordable.

A Taste of X

I had an incredible opportunity to taste through some serious knock-out wines from ExCellars distribution. The tasting was friendly and intimate, hosted at the fashionable MetroVino, which is known for a mind-boggling list of 80+ wines by the glass (a feat impossible without the use of the stylish Enomatic wine preservation system). Present wineries included Owen Roe, Sineann, El Corazon, Côte Bonneville, Fausse Piste, and Pomum.

On the table we found the latest releases by Owen Roe. With each vintage comes variant percentages in blended grape varieties, and I was eager to try the '09 Sinister Hand after adoring the 2008 creation. The soft and supple spice and well rounded candied pecans on the palate were less warm and decadent than the previous year, and while I enjoyed this wine, it was not as sexy as its preceding installment. I loved, however, the magical forest-like 2008 Yakima Valley Red, and especially the 2008 Cabernet Franc "Rosa Mystica." The wine was so smooth that it coated my tongue as if it were milk, reminding me of sipping a decadent Hot Toddy in the blizzarding mayhem of Winter. In pouring our tastes, the winery's own Darius Price beamed, "this Cab Franc stole my heart;" just as it did mine.

Winemaker Kerry Sheils poured a selection of her 94+pts creations from Côte Bonneville. Fabulous aromas and complex aromas, yet for $120 I'll pass on the 2004 DuBrul Vineyard Cab/Merlot.

The charming and animated Spencer Sievers appropriately entitled his lively wine El Corazon, meaning "heart." I didn't believe his Syrah could be bested until the Malbec was poured. The deep beet colored juice was so smooth and dreamy with the slightest dash of ink that, in a daze, I scribbled ♥ ♥ ♥.

Jesse Skiles, the creative mind behind Fausse Piste, had several kick-ass wines to share. One of my favorites was Skiles' 2008 Syrah Ce Lieu Apres (not yet released), an unreal blend which exhibited amusing barnyardy corn meal and Spray Millet complexities. The line-up also features Skiles' lovingly created treasures, "lOrtolan" Roussanne, a 2009 Viognier, and an '09 Syrah titled "Levier de Cuisine." Keep an eye on this talented winemaker!

And then there was Sineann, with adorably chic glass stoppers and an irresistible 2007 Yates-Conwill Pinot Noir (90pts Wine Enthusiast, $35), which combined elegant opalescence with cleanliness and a side bowl of animal crackers and vanilla wafers. If I could pair this wine with a film, I would leisurely enjoy it with The Fall (a gorgeous and heart warming action/fantasy by Tarsem, 2006.) Sineann's Sugar Hill had me thinking, "holy frosted cupcake, Batman!" and the 2009 Oak Ridge Pinot Noir tasted of wonderful warm and chewy, rubbery earth.

Ruling: the ExCellars tasting brought awesome small production, artisan wines on each front. Don't miss out on these wines, they are worth the hunt!

°.°Bubbles & Port°.°

Aperitif met desert at Lucier for an industry tasting. Here, I meandered with fellow industry friends to giggle over bubblies and mellow out with Port.

We munched on an array of salumis, cheeses, and artisan breads while reviewing wines organized by distributor. Some of my favorite sparklers included:

• the complex and fruity Dom Ste Michel Luxe ($16). I adored its every aspect from the wonderfully integrated bubbles to its affordability and orangy, white chocolate covered strawberry essence.
• Piper Heidsieck Brut Cuvee ($40) excited my palate with bright lemony orange peel and nasturtium flavors.
• the eccentric Louis Perdrier Brut Rosé ($10!) held perfectly lateral off-dry, light bubbles across my tongue while integrating a bright under layer of citrusy raspberry.

Then we began our round of desert wines:

• yum! a light, white raisin, almost inky port: the Nicolas Feuillatte Millenium Cuvee Special ($50).
• the amazingly complicated, unassumingly lightly syruped Osborne 20year aged Port ($42) had a deceptively heavier and richer nose than the 10 year (savory salumi maple for $28), and earned it a ♥ ♥ in my note book.
• Flavor explosion! Another deuce heart extravaganza, this time orange liqueur flavored baby food from Royal Tokaji: Red Label (05/06, $29), and an awesomely effervescent white grapefruit-esque Mad Cuvee (2008, $15!).

Taittinger offered an intriguing rosé, Prestige ($66), which stood out from the rest with a quick crash of bubbles and overt notes of soapy pink flowers as if to beg, "bath time!" A yeasty contrast, the Chas Heidsieck Brut Reserve ($43), elicited images of 1950s school house life with taunting burnt hair and muddy wet dog.

A representative from Armand de Brignac offered a speech and a pour of "what the young kids like to call the Ace of Spades" champagne, whose bottles are hand dipped in metallic coating, and worth around $300. Though the high end bubbles were certainly delicious, smooth, and mushroom-like, the presentation was a little overdone, almost up-tight-turned-kitschy.

Bubbles best pair with food-- as it is able to cut through fat, cool spice on the palate, or brighten any heavy plate-- and special occasions; this event left me beaming with newfound bubbly appreciation. Port, I've found, is best served solo or alongside blue cheeses, walnuts and chocolates; after this tasting, I have a renewed, voracious appetite for such desert wines.

See you next time in the tasting room!

the Next Hip Artisan Wine

Enso Winery is a shiny new urban project masterminded by wine makers Chris Wishart and Ryan Sharp, both formerly instrument to Arcane Cellars. The exuberant duo source grapes from the west coast states, and we'll see their first commercial vintage hit the market next fall. I was ecstatic to attend their teaser taster bash, for which Chris and Ryan poured their recently bottled Resonate Red (a velvety blend of Malbec and Grenache) and a simply divine dry Riesling entitled Resonate White. These wines are phenomenal-- get amped for what's up next; we got a decanted preview of the adolescent Zinfandel, and it has genuine spunk. We will also see an array of reds, whites, and a rosé (hurray!) come fall 2011. Thank you Chris and Ryan!

Family in Town!

Portland is an influential axis of culinary enthusiasm, and Brent's equivalently ebullient Southern Californian family was in town last weekend to partake in our city's scrumptious creations. We gorged at food carts, savored a bite at Café Vélo, enjoyed libations at local establishments, and-- what better to do with the visiting vinophile family than taste in our nearby wine country!

We had a fabulous visit to one of our favorite wineries, Rex Hill, which wowed everyone with Pinots and dazzled with whites. We also stopped by Chehalem Winery for artsy-sleek labels, fresh dry Reisling, and friendly dogs! I highly recommend the steel barrel aged 2007 Ian's Reserve Chardonnay (91 pts Wine Spectator, $36) for a special occasion.

Further adventuring included a cellar opening at Thirst, classic wining and dining at Jake's (where we enjoyed a bottle of De Ponte 07 Dundee Hills Pinot Noir!), dancing at a Vanimal show, a rain storm, happy hour at Nel Centro, a cupping at Stumptown, and more!

You Are Invited...

Ah, to be young at an industry tasting; nothing else compares. My most recent wine adventure landed me at the Armory, where select Estate wineries put their most delicious current releases under the nasal scrutiny of hundreds of professionals.

VIP Industry Pass

Yamhill-Carlton District AVA

presents

Down to Earth Wine Tasting 2010

Center Stage Armory - Gerding Theater

August 30

There was Chardonnay, there was Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Reisling, an occasional wild card varietal and, you guessed it, lots of Pinot Noir. Armed only with Riedels and eager palates, we set out on the tasting floor. Of the twenty-seven wineries--totaling over one hundred pours--we anticipated surprise, drama, disappointment, and new found loves.

"Your palate is always freshest in the morning when you don't use mouthwash." -- Adam Campbell, winemaker, Elk Cove Vineyards.

Our first stop on the circuit was Elk Cove Vineyards. Now, Riesling, as I often shun sweeter white wines, is a touchy varietal for me, but Elk Cove delivered a balanced and minerally, mouthwatering 2009 Estate Riesling ($17) that seemed hand tailored to my palate, despite it's sugary nature. The selections of Pinot Noir were less impressive given the circumstance, as each was slightly flabby in flavor and loosely structured.

Spotting a decanter and a mysterious double magnum we scooted over to EIEIO & Co. where Jay McDonald no.2 poured his yet to be released 2008 Pinot Noir Cuvée Y. "The wine is young," McDonald excused, "but you professionals can taste through that!" Giddy about his "professional" comment, we sniffed and sipped... Already an immaculately structured and complex wine, this subtly oaked Pinot is going to be a stud when it's finally ready to drink (not that we'll be getting our hands on the 200 case limited release).

With a few more tastes and a revitalizing shot of gazpacho, we slipped upstairs.

Anne Amie Vineyards' 2007 Prismé candied-walnut-surprise Pinot Noir Blanc was really exciting. To produce this colorless Pinot Noir, grape skins are allowed no time to steep in the pressed juice, and aged 18 months in French oak to create a voluptuous white wine. Another tasty find at Anne Amie was the lustrous 2007 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir (92 pts Wine & Spirits, $35). What a knock out first impression; I anticipate fabulous finds in forthcoming vintages.

Let's talk Melon. Melon de Bourgogne, the varietal used to make the dry white wine, Muscadet, is a rare find outside of France's Loire Valley. The grapes have recently been introduced here in the Pacific Northwest, and--seafood lovers, get excited--Roots is bringing the heat with its fabulously spiced 2009 Deux Vert Vineyard Melon de Bourgogne. With a nice mouthfeel at $18 greens, I'm amped to pair Roots' Melon with some slippery oysters.

Next we learned how sustainably cultivated Willakenzie vines parent a remarkably acidic jelly and cocktail fruity 2007 Pierre Léon Pinot Noir ($38), and a noteworthy 2009 Pinot Blanc ($21).

My first introduction to Carlton Cellars' lightly toasted Pinot Noir was thrilling. Saturated dark-marinated cherries headed the structure of the 2007 Cape Lookout Pinot ($30), and I adored how the 2008 performed buoyantly with down-home brambly raspberry-- I felt like I should be in a jumper, cartwheeling with the chickens on a dry Autumn day at the barn.

At the end, the floor held both striking executions and dull efforts. At 3 o'clock we were summoned downstairs for a sit-down tasting.

A 10 year retrospective

Oregon producers opened their cellars to share tastes of their decade-old Pinot Noir. Ken Wright introduced a blind tasting of extraordinary 2000s from Kramer, Elk Cove, Stag Hollow, Sother, and Belle Pente.

Ranking

1. The 2000 Pinot Noir by Stag Hollow-- my favorite of the bunch-- featured a warm, graham crackery nose which introduced a well rounded palate of slightly dried prunes and a sazerac rye whiskey and puckering anise twinge... reminds me of my favorite cocktail!
2. 2000 Pinot Noir by Belle Pente. BAM! The last wine of the tasting hit with a dry, earthy and acidic cherry love.
3. The 2000 Pinot Noir by Sother was gritty and herbaceous, and saturated with watery cherries.
4. My tasting scribbles for Kramer's 2000 Pinot Noir read: musty. lightening fast acid & gritty cowboy farm barnyard yee-ha.
5. 2000 Pinot Noir by Elk Cove: bright and creamy with a fruit leathery orange plumb liqueur body.

I had a blast on my winey afternoon, and I took away a valuable lesson, "your palate is always freshest in the morning when you don't use mouthwash." Eloquently put by Winemaker Adam Campbell of Elk Cove Vineyards.


Whew! I'm exhausted... See you next time in the tasting room!

The Italian Backroads at PWM

Portland Wine Merchants is bustling with jovial regulars and wine enthusiasts every Friday evening. The quaint shop offers a myriad of bottles and generously hosts fantastic themed tastings every week-- this time we explored Italian creations while munching on cheese and salami and enjoying the company of fellow vinophiles.

After numerous tastings, it was clear the Masseria La Sorba Fumac 2006 was the rocking stand out of the night, and a fabulous wine for only $10; we brought a bottle home to review for you later. I have to award top honors to the irresistible, port-like Musella Amarone della Valpolicella 2003. Amarone is made by a unique drying process called Appasimento, which concentrates sugars, flavors, and tannins. The resultant pressed juice is left to steep in its own grape skins (known as maceration) for added color and flavor, and is then aged in oak barrels for a smooth and noble structure. "It tastes like breakfast," my friend Paige affirmed of the supple maple-bacon sapidity. One sip had my own imagination running, envisioning a cozy autumn evening spent lounging beside the fireplace while indulging in a glass of Amarone with aggrandizing delectables. This is hardly an affordable libation ($50) and I don't have a fireplace, but allow me the fantasy.

While tasting the Italians, PWM regular, Kristina Thomas, received an exciting call; her Estate Chardonnay had just won gold medal at the Oregon State Fair. She happened to have a bottle in the car, and in celebration obliged us with the extreme honor of sampling her award winning 2008 Estate Reserve Chardonnay (92 pts, Wine Enthusiast 2010). I cannot remember the last time I gushed over a white wine, but I feel like I found the goose that laid the golden egg. This Chardonnay is super sexy with dry, smoky toast and mysterious complexity. Sadly, there are only 14 cases left, so keep a look out for the next estate reserve Chard by Phelps Creek!

Thursday Tasting

Artisanal Cellars Dovetail white 2008

concoction: 50% Viognier, 50% Roussanne

visuals: carefree yellow.

sniffings: pleasantly floral.

palate: honey like and refreshing, without overbearing sweetness.

ruling: the best recipe for a spring wedding.

Apolloni Pinot Noir 2007

visuals: reveal the darker side of pinot.

sniffings: Barbie and Ken's leathery plastic love.

palate: wild cherries and rubbery tannins.

ruling: 2007 was a difficult vintage for Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. The wines were typically thinner and weaker due to cooler temperatures. For $23 I would not recommend this bottle. Still, this wine is drinkable and not unpleasant by any means.

Three Rivers Winery Meritage 2004

concoction: a mutt of Cabernet Savignon, Merlot, Malbec, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot.

palate: this guy is big and dry.

ruling: my top pick of the tasting. when next we meet, it'll be over a juicy hunk of meat. yum.

Gracious Wines at Four Graces

Following the nightmarish experience of Duck Pond Cellars, a white picket fence lined driveway can instill immediate panic. At first sight, Four Graces, with its well groomed mini garden, adorable cottage-like tasting room, and close proximity to Duck Pond, was frightening. "Should we turn back?" we questioned, but the fear was instantly dismissed upon entry. The spanning vineyard and tiny 1930s farmhouse ooze charm. The tasting room, adorned with grainy family photos of elegant daughters (the four graces), inspires comfort and nostalgia. We met with vineyard manager, the amiable Anthony Van Nice, to taste wines from the concise production list. To start, an 09 Pinot Gris-- though slightly too syrupy and not terribly crisp, the bright and juicy white delighted in its light caramelized flavors of toasted white nuts. The wines that followed were astounding. An 09 Pinot Blanc tickled my senses all the way down, leaving me giddy and craving more of the light, citrusy-smooth, baked cinnamon pear that had just been sampled. The sultry, impressively structured Willamette Valley 2008 Pinot Noir displayed velvety, lush fruits and splendid acidity. Its creamy finale lingered until our final pour-- the 07 Dundee Hills Pinot-- which powerfully marched its earthy vim around my tongue. We left with a serene mind, having embraced the welcome of Four Graces' genial and unpretentious spirit. Fear not the picket fence, but enjoy Four Graces enchanting selections!

Old Ladies Bite at Duck Pond Cellars

Ancient wrinkled hands struggle to uncork a bottle of merlot as we enter a kitschy boutique style room with nick-knack cluttered shelves. Wine bottles are tastelessly adorned with awarded medals. The bar is bustling with seniors while terrible 90's soft rock saturates the air. "How you kiddies doin'?" greets the elderly tasting room associate. "Welcome to Duck Pond Cellars."

"[The pinot gris] is so minerally,

it tastes like manchego." --Brent

First taste in the glass is an 08 pinot gris. The wine is gorgeously clear by sight. My cohort-- aspiring sommelier, Brent --describes the funky crisp apple and light mandarin finish as "so minerally it tastes like manchego;" he gives an approving thumbs up, while I am less appreciative. We concur, the oaked butter flavor of the 07 Chardonnay has quite a rocky and biting relationship with its acidity. An 08 pinot noir is poured next. Though the palate features pleasant acidity, the minimal earth and awkward toastiness earns further negative reaction. The gewürztraminer finishes with a bite. I find the flabby merlot synonymous to nestle coco powder mixed with hot water, while Brent equates it to poor drip filter coffee.

Slightly perturbed and grasping for a redeeming wine, we cracker our palates and go for Duck Pond's Washington label, Desert Wind. The 08 Ruah meritage is poured, looking stately in the glass. Some cedar spice, a little rubarb... dusty tannins, dark fruits... this is a good wine! Relieved, though not convinced, we attempt a viognier, whose lite minerals and nuttiness leave little room for dissatisfaction. A clean sangiovese shows promise as a food wine. The last, an 06 syrah, proves nothing short of oddly delicious with a concentrated, rubbery body, and cedary lavender reminiscent of... wait... is that fresh raspberry creme filled doughnut? Couldn't be.

On the chance you enjoy quilting, tacky cottage motifs, and are an Alabaman tourist, your tastes may better align with Duck Pond Cellars than did mine. The Duck Pond experience was frustrating, with its off biting finishes and strangely unstructured tasting sequence (viognier after meritage!?), yet it was ultimately rescued from an inadequate evaluation. Though I cannot give the Oregon label approval, I do recommend Desert Wind as a tasty and affordable alternative.

Bio-Dynamic Triumph at Rex Hill

Happy vines beget unique wines-- and Newberg's Rex Hill Winery has very happy vines. From their 17 vineyard acres, Rex Hill creates fabulously energetic wines. Rex Hill's animated Mike Willison recently took us on a facility tour. The atmosphere at the estate was friendly and real. We learned that while too many wineries capitalize on tourism, focusing on vineyard aesthetics, Rex Hill emphasizes bio-dynamic growth in order to retain the true flavor of each varietal. Willison enlightened us on how, through the cultivation of natural pest defense, chemical sprays are unnecessary-- employee gardens blockade against hungry slugs, voles are kept at bay by attracting hawks, and wild flowers and buckwheat crops invite bees to pollinate. No shiny pesticides to suffocate the hillside leaves grapes free to develop a true personality and to produce wines of expert quality.

With the general American palate craving bigger, fatter, slap-you-across-the-face flavor, finding a Chardonnay that isn't essentially extract of buttered popcorn can prove daunting.

Willison jovially walked us through numerous wines. What instantly excited my palate were the beautifully complex and airy Chardonnays. With the general American palate craving bigger, fatter, slap-you-across-the-face flavor, finding a Chardonnay that isn't essentially extract of buttered popcorn can prove daunting (how my boyfriends sister can enjoy Kendall Jackson on the rocks defies all reason). Fortunately for oak skeptics, Rex Hill exists. The 08 A-Z Chardonnay delighted with fresh, un-oaked fruits, honey, and acidic minerality. The 07 Rex Hill Reserve Chardonnay, which spent merely 15% of its life in new French oak, and whose earthiness and mouthfeel mimicked that of a lite pinot noir, dazzled me to speechlessness.

In northern Oregon thrives Pinot Noir. The 06 vintage was criticized for producing flamboyant pinot bombs, yet Rex Hill managed to shirk the showy attitude, keeping it simple, and ultimately superior. Their Sims Vineyard 06 pinot noir, showcases excellent balance and revitalizing acidity despite dangerously approaching 16%abv. Willison described the 07 Dundee Hills pinot as bearing "brambly giddy-up terrior," and joked he couldn't sell us a bottle, "this is the special line I keep for myself."

Also recommended from Rex Hill/A-Z:

• Rex Hill 2007 Chardonnay, un-oaked, Willamette Valley.
• Newly released 2008 A-Z pinot noir, Willamette Valley.
• Southern Oregon's dusty 2006 Chemin de Terre, which aptly translates to "dirt road."

Estate Marauding: Vineyard Tastings.

Take a quick trip down the 99 from Portland and you'll find a storybook land consumed in gorgeous green hillsides. Accessible only by a maze of dirt paths, acres upon acres of carefully tended vines glow in the sunshine. This is pinot country.

Our summer of estate tastings began at Archery Summit, whose wonderfully dry Vireton pinot noir rosé instantly relaxed all senses with a lush yet airy mouthfeel. I found the '07 premier cuvée pleasingly seductive over both the single vineyard and reserve pinot (which one should allow time to reach optimum drinkability) featured in the flight.

I admit I was taken aback by De Ponte Cellars. It's as if French winemaker, Isabelle Dutarte, waved her magic finger to create other worldly, Burgundian style pinot noir which gave rise to De Ponte's premier vintage merely ten years ago. After sampling and discussing with some of the Baldwin relatives, we merrily left with several bottles of unexpectedly affordable wines including luminescent watermelon-esque rosé, and near mythical 2006 pinot noir (which may just pop up on my crave list).

Archery and De Ponte are two top notch wineries, indeed. I anxiously await new vintage releases... in the mean time, further vineyard tastings are sure to inspire and excite!