Matchmaking: Pinot + Coho

Always a debacle when you're craving fish and red wine. Lucky for us, we live in Pinot-land, Salmon-country! After summer-mania, it had been a while since we last dined at home. I whipped up some savory faro with spring vegetables (one of my favorite rare-to-find repeat recipes) which I've adapted from Brigit Bins' The New Slow Cooker. And Braun's on fish duty, which before reading some kick-ass tips, seemed quite daunting (something always goes wrong!) Ah, but how lovely the dinner turned out! The fire has been rekindled on my previously waning salmon enthusiasm!

To compliment some gorgeous Coho filets (and for Braun's blind tasting exercise), I chose Sineann's 2009 Schindler Vineyard Pinot Noir. A fabulous flavor team, indeed! We also popped a 2011 Comm G.B. Burlotto Verduno Pelaverga for a little pairing experiment, since we are in no way convinced that Pinot can be the only red with enough lightness and finesse to balance a cut of salmon. We remembered this Piedmontese wine as being a light & spritely, peppery wine, flush with the flavor of nasturtiums. Alas! The food and drink were nary a compliment, as the wine greatly overpowered the delicate dish. The search for a non-Pinot, salmon-worthy red continues!

mmm...

*also, fun fact: Coho salmon is the official animal of Chiba, Japan, and October is salmon-season! I had buckets of fun joining a salmon festival in Northern Japan around this time in 2008. Among the many fish races, various meats on sticks, dancing, and milk drinking competitions, there was also: the catch-your-own-salmon-free-for-all.

Game Hen Smack Down

For every food, there is a perfect wine to pair, and we need to taste a lot to find it! On tonights table we've grabbed two Pinots to test out with roasted game hen and warm faro salad.

The wines:

Olivier Jouan "Les Bussieres," 2007 old vine Chambolle Musigny > Burgundy > France.

Spicy cherries and tart persimmons. Soft pomegranate. A nice little wine, but perhaps not the perfect Pinot for our dish!

J. Daan, 2009 Willamette Valley > Oregon.

The clear winner! A brilliant food wine across the board, this wine perfectly balanced each bite with savory herbaceousness. The best part is, I wasn't into the wine on it's own, but the pairing made the best flavors and textures shine. The pairing had Brent's tastebuds tingling: "I feel like I had a cupcake, ate it in bed, spilled it all over my pillow and ate it." I guess... he likes it!

Ah, pairing. It's like super fun, self-imposed homework.

2008 ♥ big Pinot Noir

2008 Subrosa

origin: Pinot Noir > Witness Tree Vineyard > Eola Hills > Willamette Valley > Oregon.

visuals: a deep, romantic, violet-black.

sniffings: violets, fig, dark persimmons, amaretto cherries, sweet bourbon + mossy wood after rain. 

palate: thick amaretto cherry, blue anise, slight slate, pepper spice & pink pea (my guess is a touch of Syrah addition?). Brent ruminates, "you get that '09 sense of cherry cola with a good undercurrent of earth despite all the fruit. It's bright, rich, with a balance so prevalent, one ends up with that juicy, rich, silky, and gliding mouthfeel of 2008."

ruling: some have crowned 2008 the greatest Oregon Pinot vintage yet, and while this wine is quite tasty, I find myself still drawn to light-style, long-aged wines from cooler years in the Willamette. Wish we had another Subrosa for the cellar!

Wines for Feasting

Thanks to Katharine Cole of MIX magazine for mentioning us! They asked me to recommend my favorite PNW gems  best suited for a Thanksgiving feast. Seeing as those wines are mostly small production and may sell out quickly, I figured we'd throw out a few more for your Turkey filled table.

 Jaquère Montmeliwhat?

Jean Vullien Savoie Blanc Jaquère, Montmelian 11.50$

The only non northwest wine of the bunch, this is the steal of steals at $11.50. We've gushed about Jean Vullien's Mondeuse on multiple occasions and this white is just as good.  Bright lemon/lime and subtle herb all prop up a backbone of stony minerality. This wine is extremely well balanced. The citrus notes work wonderfully with lemon zested green beans, and it's touch of fresh basil makes this a perfect white wine for light turkey meat and savory stuffing. A salty caramel finish comes as a delightful surprise, allowing the wine to pair with dishes such as caramelized onion tart. Oh, and for those wondering, Jaquère is the grape and Montmelian is one of the 17 cru's of Savoie in southeastern France :)

Together We Shall Rule The Galaxy as Father and Daughter*

Et Fille 2009 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 23$

Oregon Pinot Noir is a classic Thanksgiving pairing, and at this price its hard to find a better 2009. Using a blend of fruit from multiple premium vineyards, father/daughter wine making team Howard Mozeico and Jessica Mozeico-Blair have crafted a Pinot that is silky-smooth while still maintaining it's bright acidity. The harmonious balance and gorgeous mouthfeel are two qualities we've found lacking in other 2009 Willamette Valley Pinots (it was a very hot year).  Fresh pipe tobacco and blackberry jump out of the glass while rich baking spice coats the palate. It's a stand-out stuffing and turkey wine, rich enough for dark meat but light and fresh enough for light, and it's got enough body to stand up to any other meat on the table.

Venison and Violets

Enso 2010 old vine Mourvedre, Bella Grace Vineyards 28$-----Just released Nov. 1st and only available at ENSO Winery and Tasting Lounge.

This wine smells of chalky chocolate covered blueberries and your grandfather's old leather chair that's been hiding in the attic for decades. Surprisingly dusty despite it's youth, this Mourvedre tastes like no other wine being made in the northwest. The tannins are soft but omnipresent while the acid is bright enough to make it perfect as the centerpiece of a Thanksgiving table. The palate is full of  peppery venison jerky and licorice covered rocks; it's a stellar match for meats, stuffing, cranberry sauce and cheeses.

We'd love to hear what will be on your table for the holiday--send us your Thanksgiving selections, and happy feasting! ---Brent

*No relation to the Skywalker family.

Evening Land at Seven Springs Vineyard

This was a gorgeous summer day in Oregon.  In fact, it was the first sun of the season, and dare I say, perhaps the last because we've had nothing but rain clouds since (in mid-July!)

We trekked out to Eola-Amity for a relaxing afternoon with Evening Land Vineyards. The day was spent lounging on haystacks with friends in the barn,  enjoying appetizers by El Goucho, and tromping through the renowned Seven Springs Vineyards with a pair of trusty hounds to the serenade of  summery bluegrass twang. Mix Magazine's Katharine Cole graced the scene and shared with us her recently published Voodoo Vintners, in representation of SSV's biodynamic practices. At the winemaking helm here is Isabelle Meunier, whose impeccable Pinot Noir and flirtatious Chardonnay is undoubtedly an achievement of great care and passion. When reaching the vineyard's peak we were greeted with Pinot Noir made in the old-school feminine Burgundies style---at perfectly cool drinking temp, I might add!

Ian pouring Summum for Mike, me, and Brent.

The 2009 La Source Estate Pinot and 2008 Summum, are a true pleasure (at $45 and $60 respectively.)  If you have the cash to burn on something really special, the 2009 Seven Springs Vineyard La Source Chardonnay ($60) takes the cake, though for $15 less one can pick up the simpler, yet still playful, Mad Hatter.  And, although the 2008 SSV Summum Chardonnay is down right spectacular, one should not, in their right mind, be persuading their wallet to relinquish $120.    These are not your every day wines, and of course if all you need is a delight to cool the mid-year heat, grab the juicy 2010 Celebration (Gamay) for just 20 bones.

Somms on the Road

My ISG Sommelier class, led by instructor Savannah Ray (Sommelier, ten01), recently trekked out to Oregon wine country for some rockin' tastings. Here's where we ventured:

Argyle -- the highest rated non-champagne sparkling in the world.

Argyle uses impressive modern and antique machines to make their bubbles the traditional way (méthode champenoise seen right), and remain one of the select few who attempt to create such airy delights.

Phenomenal Argyle tastes:

• elegant roses & strawberries - the 2007 Brut Rosé (90 pts Wine Spectator, $50).
• robust - 2007 "Nuthouse" Pinot Noir ($50).
• salty toasted hazelnut "Nuthouse" Chardonnay (92pts Wine Spectator, $33).

Cristom -- "letting the land make the wines," and doing a damn fine job of it.

We wandered the sleeping vineyards with Cristom winemaker Steve Doerner who explained that great wine starts in the soil. After cozying ourselves in the tasting room, we worked through three flights and a vertical featuring "Margorie" Pinot Noir, vintages 1996 through 1999.

Phenomenal Cristom Pinots:

• 2007 Margorie
• 2007 Louise
• 2006 Lea

Evening Land -- Burgundy's superstar winemaker Dominique LaFon + EL's winemaster Isabelle Meunier = top tier, classic Pinot.

After touring Evening Land's modern warehouse facility and tasting a plethora of wines, Ken Pahlow (winemaker of Walter Scott) presented an egregiously long syphon for our barrel tasting pleasure. His 2010 fuscia-tastic Gamay (Beaujolais Nouveau anyone?) was fresh and young, while the not-quite-mature Pinot Gris popped out of the glass, and his Pinot Blanc earned ♥ ♥. I am really looking forward to the release of these Walter Scotts!

Phenomenal Evening Land tastes:

• orange zest and subtle oak infused 2008 Red Queen Pinot Noir (93 pts Wine Advocate, $90) is a member of the prestigious top tier white label line, said to represent the "pinnacle... of the vineyard's best self."
• another white label member, the 2008 Seven Springs Vineyard Summom Chardonnay (95 pts Wine Spectator, $116!!), exhibits saltwater taffy, magical acidity, and fresh creaminess.

the Superlative Intoxicant: from... New Zealand!

It's time for a little double blind action! As I pour myself a glass, the light color and boisterously earthy nose suggest a Pinot Noir. The zingy fruity lightness confirm my suspicions, a Pinot indeed! As for its origin, consider me stumped... The sprightly earth on the nose reminds me of wines from both the Willamette Valley and Burgundy, yet the lusciousness of the fruit on the palate has me convinced its a Burgundy... Let's unveil.

Oops! Forgot about those zany Kiwis; an impressive show from

New Zealand-- it seems they're bringing a little competition to the Frogs, especially at this price!

Stoneleigh Marlborough Pinot Noir 2008

visuals: an opalescently dark eggplant.

sniffings: did you ever think manure could be so inviting?

palate: light, simple, supple-warm-buttery-raspberry creme.

ruling: thank you New Zealand for this, thine fabulously unpretentious, out-of-the-ordinary Pinot Noir. We went back for two more bottles for every day consumption.

spendings: $15 or less.

Gracious Wines at Four Graces

Following the nightmarish experience of Duck Pond Cellars, a white picket fence lined driveway can instill immediate panic. At first sight, Four Graces, with its well groomed mini garden, adorable cottage-like tasting room, and close proximity to Duck Pond, was frightening. "Should we turn back?" we questioned, but the fear was instantly dismissed upon entry. The spanning vineyard and tiny 1930s farmhouse ooze charm. The tasting room, adorned with grainy family photos of elegant daughters (the four graces), inspires comfort and nostalgia. We met with vineyard manager, the amiable Anthony Van Nice, to taste wines from the concise production list. To start, an 09 Pinot Gris-- though slightly too syrupy and not terribly crisp, the bright and juicy white delighted in its light caramelized flavors of toasted white nuts. The wines that followed were astounding. An 09 Pinot Blanc tickled my senses all the way down, leaving me giddy and craving more of the light, citrusy-smooth, baked cinnamon pear that had just been sampled. The sultry, impressively structured Willamette Valley 2008 Pinot Noir displayed velvety, lush fruits and splendid acidity. Its creamy finale lingered until our final pour-- the 07 Dundee Hills Pinot-- which powerfully marched its earthy vim around my tongue. We left with a serene mind, having embraced the welcome of Four Graces' genial and unpretentious spirit. Fear not the picket fence, but enjoy Four Graces enchanting selections!

Bio-Dynamic Triumph at Rex Hill

Happy vines beget unique wines-- and Newberg's Rex Hill Winery has very happy vines. From their 17 vineyard acres, Rex Hill creates fabulously energetic wines. Rex Hill's animated Mike Willison recently took us on a facility tour. The atmosphere at the estate was friendly and real. We learned that while too many wineries capitalize on tourism, focusing on vineyard aesthetics, Rex Hill emphasizes bio-dynamic growth in order to retain the true flavor of each varietal. Willison enlightened us on how, through the cultivation of natural pest defense, chemical sprays are unnecessary-- employee gardens blockade against hungry slugs, voles are kept at bay by attracting hawks, and wild flowers and buckwheat crops invite bees to pollinate. No shiny pesticides to suffocate the hillside leaves grapes free to develop a true personality and to produce wines of expert quality.

With the general American palate craving bigger, fatter, slap-you-across-the-face flavor, finding a Chardonnay that isn't essentially extract of buttered popcorn can prove daunting.

Willison jovially walked us through numerous wines. What instantly excited my palate were the beautifully complex and airy Chardonnays. With the general American palate craving bigger, fatter, slap-you-across-the-face flavor, finding a Chardonnay that isn't essentially extract of buttered popcorn can prove daunting (how my boyfriends sister can enjoy Kendall Jackson on the rocks defies all reason). Fortunately for oak skeptics, Rex Hill exists. The 08 A-Z Chardonnay delighted with fresh, un-oaked fruits, honey, and acidic minerality. The 07 Rex Hill Reserve Chardonnay, which spent merely 15% of its life in new French oak, and whose earthiness and mouthfeel mimicked that of a lite pinot noir, dazzled me to speechlessness.

In northern Oregon thrives Pinot Noir. The 06 vintage was criticized for producing flamboyant pinot bombs, yet Rex Hill managed to shirk the showy attitude, keeping it simple, and ultimately superior. Their Sims Vineyard 06 pinot noir, showcases excellent balance and revitalizing acidity despite dangerously approaching 16%abv. Willison described the 07 Dundee Hills pinot as bearing "brambly giddy-up terrior," and joked he couldn't sell us a bottle, "this is the special line I keep for myself."

Also recommended from Rex Hill/A-Z:

• Rex Hill 2007 Chardonnay, un-oaked, Willamette Valley.
• Newly released 2008 A-Z pinot noir, Willamette Valley.
• Southern Oregon's dusty 2006 Chemin de Terre, which aptly translates to "dirt road."

Estate Marauding: Vineyard Tastings.

Take a quick trip down the 99 from Portland and you'll find a storybook land consumed in gorgeous green hillsides. Accessible only by a maze of dirt paths, acres upon acres of carefully tended vines glow in the sunshine. This is pinot country.

Our summer of estate tastings began at Archery Summit, whose wonderfully dry Vireton pinot noir rosé instantly relaxed all senses with a lush yet airy mouthfeel. I found the '07 premier cuvée pleasingly seductive over both the single vineyard and reserve pinot (which one should allow time to reach optimum drinkability) featured in the flight.

I admit I was taken aback by De Ponte Cellars. It's as if French winemaker, Isabelle Dutarte, waved her magic finger to create other worldly, Burgundian style pinot noir which gave rise to De Ponte's premier vintage merely ten years ago. After sampling and discussing with some of the Baldwin relatives, we merrily left with several bottles of unexpectedly affordable wines including luminescent watermelon-esque rosé, and near mythical 2006 pinot noir (which may just pop up on my crave list).

Archery and De Ponte are two top notch wineries, indeed. I anxiously await new vintage releases... in the mean time, further vineyard tastings are sure to inspire and excite!

the Superlative Intoxicant no.7: A Complex Pinot for Home Cooked Lamb.

Matello Hommage a'A&D Pinot Noir 2008 vintage

visuals: deep beet juice. Definitely the fat girl of pinot noirs.

sniffings: burned rubber and vanilla raspberry extract

palate: light, rubbery, raspberry syrup and surprisingly acidic cranberries with a creamed blueberry finish; a highly recommended dinner wine if you're in the mood to splurge on a $25 bottle.

pair with: grilled lamb, roasted beets, and grape tomato / mushroom couscous.

for roasted beet salad: once the oven has reached 400°, toss quartered beets and shallots in olive oil, salt and pepper. loosely wrap in poil and roast for 35 minures, adding chopped asparagus 5-10 minutes before roasting is complete. serve topped with paresan reggiano.