Simple Pleasures from the Italian Country

I've always longed for the Italian life, where everyone in the family gathers for boisterous summer days spent cooking, eating, and drinking together long into the night. There's an excess of comforting food, abundant sunshine, not a care in the world. The wine is free flowing; a product of years spent cultivating the backyard vineyard, syphoned into bottle only when it's time to drink. I tasted a bit of this idealist-life in a humble and simply quaffable Montepulciano d'Abruzzo.

Abruzzo's wine is a labor of love. Their simple Italian country wines, coming from a long history of poor culture, feel most comforting and romantic sipped from a tumbler, paired with a little nonchalance and carefree whimsy. The perfect wine to not demand attention at a high energy dinner party. Eric Asimov (Chief Wine Critic, NY Times) loves his on restaurant lists wherever he can find them: "I'm always happy when I find [Montepulciano d'Abruzzo] because I know it's gonna be a solid, dependable, moderately priced wine that is content in its role as a supporting player to food." Cherries, flowers, earth, and all things gulp worthy!

a-lotta-Garnacha

Ah, summer 'neath the grape vines. Tonight we're rocking' Grenache, whether it be new world, old world, flamingo pink or garnet red. While we set out to ruminate on wine, our minds were rightfully distracted by nibbles---kick-ass cheeses, spicy cured meats, gorgeous leg of lamb with chimichuri... Over brilliant bottles from Chateauneuf du Pape, Priorat, California's central coast*, and Oregon's Rogue Valley, we chatted about everything from forthcoming travels to local eateries and approaching summer happenings. 

Can't get my mind off vacation! Some of us, myself included, are saving pennies for a rosé sipping, brie-filled tryst in Provence, but when Heather announced she's booked a trip to Malta, I'm thinking what, exactly, do the Maltese drink? Apparently there are just 5 wineries on the tiny Mediterranean island, dedicated mostly to one red and one white local grape---Gellewza & Ghirgentina. Okay, I'll admit I've never even heard of these varieties, but man, dry some Gellewza in the hot Maltese sun for a sweet,  Amarone-style elixir and I'm sure we're talking molto delizioso!

. . .

*The Clos de Gilroy by Bonny Doon Vineyard is an homage to not only my place of birth, but to my most beloved writer, Marcel Proust. The label reads cleverly: "For a long time I went to bed aïoli, cloved in nothing but the barest essential oils. The wine... pays homage to the quaint, rustic town of Gilroy, the spiritual locus of all matters alliaceous."

Summer Blush

The warmth of July has put peachy-perfect color on our cheeks, and rosy pinks in our glass. What better way to spend a gorgeous Monday than with great friends, good food, and rosé, rosé, rosé!

Favorite pinks of the night were our Bandol & Provence wines (big surprise...) from France's southern coast. Ah, the french stuff. In their stunning Mediterranean climate they make delicate little rosés from mostly Mourvèdre, Grenache, and Cinsault, and they pair excellently with nearly everything---from charcuterie to barbecued steak! But especially...

Panzanella! It's a breezy summer tradition for the Italians, based on tomatoes, olives, and toasted bread. You know, the good stuff. Sublime summer eats.

Battle: Lamb

Out with the old, in with the new? Life's just not that easy! We popped the cork on an 11 year old Aussie (that's an old new world) and a much younger Italian (a new old world*) and put them to a food challenge. We had these bad boys duke it out over juicy lamb chops, indian-spiced cauliflower mash, and some brilliantly zingy red-wine braised peppers. [Thanks, Devon! You're welcome, mouth.]

Our "down under" homeboy for the night was Torbreck's 2001 The Steading, a rather sexy-sophisticated GSM (Grenache, Mataró---another name for our beloved Mourvèdre---and Shiraz) which hails from the scorching Barossa Valley of South Australia. Boom! Subtle earthy complexities and lush tannins balanced impeccably with every inch of my plate. Felsina's 2009 Chianti Classico was next up to bat. At first, his manly-yet-romantic self needed a lot of breathing room (in fact, ended up tasting best day 2), but when he finally opened up we totally hit it off. While he held his head high in the lamb battle, he just couldn't beat the experience and finesse of our aged Aussie. All in all, wine + food were a match made in heaven, and both our wines brought their herbaceous, gritty, down-to-earth A-game to do the lamb justice.

Do we have time for a glamour shot?!

*Quick Terms: "Old World"---wines of France, Spain, & Italy. "New World"---everything else.

Neighborly Wine Potluck

Ah, a lovely evening of wine and tapas. Motivated by our love of non-in-your-face-oaky "varietally correct" wines, we themed our gathering according to producers who, as Brent passionately explained, "are not only preserving history but also inspiring us with their dedication to classical flavors and textures.... basically wine that tastes like what it's supposed to taste like." Everyone brought an appropriately expressive wine for blind tasting, and a creative dish to pair!

Finding "Varietally Correct" Wines

How can you impress all your wino friends with your impeccable taste if you don't have the opportunity to try new wines all the time? Your safest bet will be to stick with the old world. Find a regionally, village or vineyard specific French wine like Sauvignon Blanc or Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley, Chardonnay from the Macôn-Villages or Chablis, a Côtes du Rhône (blend, but primarily Syrah), a Cru Beaujolais (2009s are especially awesome), or for a splurge pick up a red Burgundy (Pinot Noir). Italian Sangiovese has a very distinct nose to it that could only be Italian (that iron, rubbery, cooked, almost bret-spoiled earthy smell... yummy!). Look for a wine from the Chianti Classico region. New world classics such as New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon, or German Riesling may also earn you extra cool points in the "wow, (s)he knows his/her wine" category. 

Small Plates of the Evening

cheese + charcuterie

bacon wrapped scallops

empanadillas de carne with refreshing Greek dipping sauce

tortilla española

Wines for Feasting

Thanks to Katharine Cole of MIX magazine for mentioning us! They asked me to recommend my favorite PNW gems  best suited for a Thanksgiving feast. Seeing as those wines are mostly small production and may sell out quickly, I figured we'd throw out a few more for your Turkey filled table.

 Jaquère Montmeliwhat?

Jean Vullien Savoie Blanc Jaquère, Montmelian 11.50$

The only non northwest wine of the bunch, this is the steal of steals at $11.50. We've gushed about Jean Vullien's Mondeuse on multiple occasions and this white is just as good.  Bright lemon/lime and subtle herb all prop up a backbone of stony minerality. This wine is extremely well balanced. The citrus notes work wonderfully with lemon zested green beans, and it's touch of fresh basil makes this a perfect white wine for light turkey meat and savory stuffing. A salty caramel finish comes as a delightful surprise, allowing the wine to pair with dishes such as caramelized onion tart. Oh, and for those wondering, Jaquère is the grape and Montmelian is one of the 17 cru's of Savoie in southeastern France :)

Together We Shall Rule The Galaxy as Father and Daughter*

Et Fille 2009 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley 23$

Oregon Pinot Noir is a classic Thanksgiving pairing, and at this price its hard to find a better 2009. Using a blend of fruit from multiple premium vineyards, father/daughter wine making team Howard Mozeico and Jessica Mozeico-Blair have crafted a Pinot that is silky-smooth while still maintaining it's bright acidity. The harmonious balance and gorgeous mouthfeel are two qualities we've found lacking in other 2009 Willamette Valley Pinots (it was a very hot year).  Fresh pipe tobacco and blackberry jump out of the glass while rich baking spice coats the palate. It's a stand-out stuffing and turkey wine, rich enough for dark meat but light and fresh enough for light, and it's got enough body to stand up to any other meat on the table.

Venison and Violets

Enso 2010 old vine Mourvedre, Bella Grace Vineyards 28$-----Just released Nov. 1st and only available at ENSO Winery and Tasting Lounge.

This wine smells of chalky chocolate covered blueberries and your grandfather's old leather chair that's been hiding in the attic for decades. Surprisingly dusty despite it's youth, this Mourvedre tastes like no other wine being made in the northwest. The tannins are soft but omnipresent while the acid is bright enough to make it perfect as the centerpiece of a Thanksgiving table. The palate is full of  peppery venison jerky and licorice covered rocks; it's a stellar match for meats, stuffing, cranberry sauce and cheeses.

We'd love to hear what will be on your table for the holiday--send us your Thanksgiving selections, and happy feasting! ---Brent

*No relation to the Skywalker family.

Summer Evenings in Stumptown

Backyard picnicking with good friends goes really well with a little Viognier and Evening Land's Gamay Celebrations. And Syncline is doing some tasty things up in Red Mountain, WA, and heck, it may be the hottest week of the year (I hope!) but we can't get enough Mourvèdre---ever.

I recently described my love for the Mourvèdre grape (and it's difficult pronunciation) to a coworker who replied "Ooo---sounds kindof erotic!" Indeed, the stuff is chalk-full of magical, manly, meaty awesomeness. Syncline is, sadly, totally sold out of their 2009, but if you have an approaching special occasion and are interested in sampling this bewitching grape, here's a quick guide to finding the stuff:

Mourvèdre is a variety of many names, which can get a touch confusing. Remember: Mourvèdre (or Balzac) in France; Montastrell in Spain; Mataró in Australia + Portugal.

Bodacious blends: Mourvèdre, Grenache, and Syrah make for one abfab blend of the classic Rhone varieties, affectionately known as GSM.

From where? Bandol (on the Mediterranean coast of France) gives us kick-ass Mourvèdre, and gorgeous rosés for summer sipping; You're probably safe buying any wine from here or the surrounding Provence region.

We love:

Domain Tempier (France > Provence > Bandol) Mourvèdre, Grenache, Cinsault (Syrah, Carignan in some blends.)

Chateau Salettes (France > Provence > Bandol) Mourvèdre, Grenache, Carignan.

Bunell Cellars (Washington > Whaluke Slope) 100% Mourvèdre. 

Torbreck Cuvee Juveniles (Australia > Barossa Valley) Grenache, Shiraz, Mataró.

Happy hunting!