12.11.2010

the Common Libation: Edmund st. Johns


We'd seen this bottle around town. It caught our eye at Pasta Works, the grocery store, Portland Wine Merchants-- begging to be taken home. In a blind tasting I concluded an Alsacian Pinot Gris... close-- this varietal wine is made with the intention of emulating the French style. Perhaps sir Winemaker might take my guess as a compliment. Here's the inside scoop:



Edmund st. Johns 2006, California

concoction: 100% Pinot Gris 13%abv

sight: pale old straw turned to golden thread (see also: Rapunzel.)

sniffings: light and powdery golden pears and supple pineapple.

palate: with impressive acidity, crisp candied pears, and soft peachy nut pie, this happy Pinot Gris leaves one feeling light and airy. Though this wine has obviously undergone malo-lactic fermentation, the demure vanilla accent fades quickly into an uninspiring, watery finish.

conclusion: this $10 wine is fun, yet I'd love to try a more recent vintage; I have a feeling this Gris should have been imbibed closer to its youth.

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